We touched down at Mulu airport less than 24 hours after completing our descent from the peak of Mt. Kinabalu. Our legs were creaking with every step as we shuffled off the tiny plane onto the equally tiny runway. It’s basically a bumpy stretch of tarmac in the middle of dense jungle.
We crossed the first of many bouncy jungle canyon rope bridges into the park headquarters full of enthusiasm and anticipation. The first impression of headquarters is excellent; the staff are well organised and friendly, and you immediately feel immersed in the jungle.
We just wanted to be out after our travels so we went for a short stroll through the forest. We found in the few days we spent there that Mulu is really well set up for those who are happy – or keen – to do things independently. You’re totally free to wander off into the jungle without a guide so long as you sign out with an estimated time of return.
We had a guided night walk booked for our first evening. Walking through the jungle in the dark was very atmospheric; we saw some seriously weird insects, arachnids, birds and amphibians. We went to bed that night intrigued and excited by what was to come.
The next day kicked off with a hair-raising canopy walk. Sixteen very bouncy rope bridges, strung up between huge trees 40 feet above the forest floor, provided an amazing perspective of the bio-diversity in the jungle and the density of the plant life. The experience was heightened by a beautiful green viper sitting in one of the trees at perfect eye level. Cameras out all round!
We were feeling great and were really excited for an afternoon of adventure caving. However, we were to suffer the first of a couple of disappointing setbacks. The minimum group of three people had not been reached, and we were not able to go out into the caves. Disappointed, but not defeated, we killed the afternoon on a long solo jungle hike, encountering some amazing plants that use a huge vibrant pink spike to attract insects which they duly ‘eat’. After a short rest at a waterfall we headed back to camp and got an early night. The next day we were due for a full day of jungle hiking and we were keen to be on top form.
But then it rained. And rained a bit more. As we met our fellow hikers and our guide, the sky began to grey. The guide warned that there was a chance the river – which we were due to walk through as part of our route – would be too high to cross safely. Any further rain and it was curtains. We got an hour into the walk and the heavens opened. The guide radioed back to headquarters and we were given the order to return. It was a real low moment. The refund felt worthless. We’d now spent virtually a day and a half of our 10 day holiday being unable to carry out the plans we’d been so excited about.
Fortunately the afternoon activities – exploring the enormous Mulu show caves – went ahead without any hitches. These things really are ludicrously huge, impossible to capture on a regular camera. They also stink of bat poo.
The first few days had been up and down to be honest but the final three days in Mulu were set to be spent travelling to the remote ‘Camp 5’. From there we’d hike up to a viewpoint where you can get amazing views of ‘The Pinnacles’, unique limestone formations that resemble dozens of razor sharp daggers sticking up out the the dense jungle.
The first day travelling to the camp was great; a morning of exploring show caves was followed by a two-hour hike through the jungle with our fellow campers. There were seven of us in the group all together and we all got on really well.
At the camp we acquainted ourselves with the VERY basic accommodation, and came to terms with the fact that we really should have bought or rented a mosquito net. Not for mosquitos but for the army of bees that were buzzing around our room.
We had a great time swimming and relaxing in the nearby river with our new friends, and then had fun knocking together some basic meals using the camp kitchen. A few drinks, cards and good old fashioned chat saw a golden afternoon slip into a noisy night, as the bees went to bed and the jungle bugs started their usual din. We slept pretty well considering.
Up the next day at 0500, we made our breakfast and got ourselves set for a challenging climb. We knew it was only 2.5km to the peak, but we also knew it’d be 2.5km over which we’d climb 1km. It was going to basically just be up. And it was.
We walked and heaved and sweated like pigs on our way up the trail. As we got within 500m the heaving turned to gripping, clinging and climbing up various rocks, bars and ladders. The finale of this climb was really the best part. It was so much fun, and also pretty exhilarating; no harnesses or safety helmets, just hands and boots doing the best they could.
The view was fantastic and well worth the effort. After a hard earned rest and the customary travel snaps we turned around for the descent. Back at camp we wasted no time hitting the river with a few beers and spent a really great afternoon swimming, laughing, sharing and drinking with our new-found friends.
That night we slept like babies and the following day we started what was going to be a long (basically two day) journey home. We were satisfied, we were exhausted, and we were done. Mulu offers so many different experiences, and is an awesome place to spend a week, or even a few days. As with the rest of Borneo it’s not cheap but if you have some money to spend it is good value for some really unique natural features on offer.
Highly recommended!
